Smarter Designs
FROM THE DESIGNER’S PERSPECTIVE
Inviting Courtyard Entry
This design employs the concept of an entry courtyard, with the front door tucked out of view from the street. With this kind of arrangement, a person can really feel the inviting, yet sheltered nature of the plan. Once inside, you are treated to a view of the open, curved stairway leading to the lower living area. The ceiling in the living room rises to 12’-7” and is emphasized even more by the placement of an impressive colonnade. This is quite a nice design contrast to the sheltered entry. The living room shares a double-sided fireplace with the kitchen, breakfast and hearth room areas (see illustration). This arrangement is one of our favorites. The kitchen is where most people gather, and to have three different conversation zones is a wonderful feature when entertaining guests. Notice how the breakfast nook is placed in a gazebo type layout. With all the natural light pouring in from five sides, this room should certainly wake you up in the morning. Please note that bedroom #2 can easily double as a home office to accommodate those who work from home.
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Backyard Project Plans
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90016
Parellel Porch Deck with Trellis and Porch Swing |
90033
Children’s Playhouse |
We offer a wide selection of today's best-selling do-it-yourself project plans. All plans come with complete materials list and step-by-step instructions designed for the do-it-yourself customer.
SEE ALL OF OUR PROJECT PLANS
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Design Styles

BUNGALOW
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A house style inspired by the simple thatched-roof huts of British India, the American bungalow home design embraces simplicity and efficiency. Bungalow house designs are characterized by their low-pitch gabled roofs with wide overhangs, often featuring exposed beams. Modest front porches and a long, rectangular shape that made them ideal for city lots also are characteristic of traditional home designs in the bungalow style. In this collection of bungalow home plans you’ll discover the same understated charm that you love in classic bungalow homes, yet with updated floor plans and contemporary amenities. You’re sure to love our growing collection of craftsman bungalow style home plans. |
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RANCH
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For the realist, nothing is more practical than the ranch style home. A bevy of convenient features make ranch home plans the choice for young buyers and retirees. One-story floor plans are safe for children and make rooms more accessible to persons of all abilities. Efficient space arrangements appeal to budget-conscious buyers. Open floor plans and segregated living areas grant light and privacy where desired. As this collection reveals, today’s ranch home designs are a far cry from the unadorned rambler house plans of the 1950s. From Colonial to Mediterranean house styles, you’re sure to find the perfect home plan for you. |
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TUDOR
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Tudor and English-style home plans draw their inspiration from medieval cottages and palaces. Distinguishing features of such home designs include decorative brickwork, false half-timbering, steep roofs, cross gables, narrow windows with diamond-patterned muntins, and massive chimneys with decorative chimney pots. The architectural home plans in this collection feature exteriors that mimic Tudor and English house styles, paired with modern floor plans. |
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BEING WELL INSULATED
You know it’s there, but you rarely give it a thought—unless the temperature inside your house won’t stay at a comfortable level. We’re talking about the insulation in your home’s walls, attic, and beneath its floors. If there’s not enough insulation, it can be added to an existing home. However, the best time to make sure your house is thoroughly insulated is during construction.
The U.S. Department of Energy estimates that heating and cooling make up 50% to 70% of energy use in the typical American home. Inadequate insulation and air leakage can cause much of this energy to escape, leading to high utility bills. Research shows that “an estimated 20% to 30% of homes are poorly insulated and another 40% are inadequately insulated,” said John Pagano, vice president and general manager of residential insulation at Owens Corning. For the sake of the environment, your wallet, and your family’s comfort, make the proper insulation of your new home a top priority.
How Does It Work?
Most home insulation is a fluffy material like fiberglass or cellulose that holds in pockets of air and slows the passage of both heat and cold.
Although the proper insulation will do a good job of keeping your house warm in the winter and cool in the summer, it can’t do it alone. Air moving through the walls will rob the insulation of much of its ability to insulate. To keep moving air out, your house must have an air barrier between the insulation and the siding to allow water vapor to escape, but prevent air from getting in.
But insulation and air barriers can’t do it all. In colder climates, the wall insulation has to be sandwiched between the air barrier and an interior vapor barrier, which usually is simple plastic sheeting. Air and vapor barriers then work together to make sure the insulation does its job properly. The vapor barrier keeps water vapor (from washing and drying, cooking, showering, breathing) inside the house, where it can be properly vented.
The Basic Types of Insulation.
When most of us think of insulation, we think of fiberglass, that pink, fluffy stuff that can make your skin itch. Fiberglass is the most common insulation material, but it’s not the only one. In addition to fiberglass, there’s cellulose, polyisocyanurate, polystyrene, vermiculite, rock wool, and a few others. Insulation usually takes one of several forms: batt, blanket, board, and loose-fill.
The measurement of insulation ability to resist heat flow is called its R-value. This number can differ due to type of material, its thickness, its density, and how well it was installed. Other factors that impact insulation’s R-value include the quality of construction, the other materials that go into the wall such as brick or wood siding, plywood sheathing, drywall, and even paint.
Fiberglass.
Fiberglass insulation, which is available in blankets, batts, or as a loose-fill, is the most common insulating material. The glass fibers do not absorb moisture, although moisture vapor can pass through and condense on cold surfaces if proper construction measures are not taken. Although fiberglass is noncombustible, if a flammable kraft facing is used it must be covered with gypsum board. Correctly installed, the lightweight fiberglass does not settle. Fiberglass batts and blankets are designed to fit in the standard spaces between studs and often come with a kraft paper facing that includes a flange for stapling the insulation to the studs, joists, or rafters. Batts are pre-cut to set lengths; blankets are continuous rolls. The R-value of batt fiberglass is approximately 3.1 to 4.5 per inch of thickness. Loose-fill fiberglass is a fluffy substance that conforms to the space in which it is blown. Loose-fill is effective in filling hard-to-reach or irregular spaces. The R-value of loose-fill can range from 2.2 to 2.7 per inch.
Cellulose.
Cellulose is fiberglass’ main rival and the environmentalist’s friend. It is also less expensive to produce than fiberglass. Made from recycled wood fiber, chiefly newspaper, cellulose effectively insulates and when really packed into a wall cavity, can even air seal the wall.
Cellulose is blown in or poured in, and its small particles snugly fill open cavities, flowing around obstacles such as wires, pipes, or nails. It is chemically treated to withstand fire, corrosion, mold, and even insects and rodents. Cellulose can even help reduce air leakage if it is installed according to the proper density requirements. The R-value of properly installed cellulose is 3.6 to 3.8 per inch.
Foam Insulation.
Foam insulation has a range of R-values, from R-4 to R-8 per inch, which is two to three times higher than most other types of insulation. Made from molded expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene, or a type of urethane foam insulation is available in spray-on and rigid board forms.
Sprayed-on foam insulation expands to fill even the hardest-to-reach spots. This photo shows how it spreads out and hardens around the framing, easily filling irregularly shaped areas. (Photography: King-Levy Thermal Spray Technology, Inc.).
There are potential problems with foam insulation. Some types fall prey to moisture, so installing a vapor-diffusion retarder or caulking around boards may be required. Also, some insects find foam insulation quite habitable and tunnel into it, though some manufacturers treat the foam with an insecticide. And while it is difficult to ignite foam, once it is lit, foam burns quickly and produces dark and heavy smoke.
Sprayed-on foam is usually some type of urethane and is sprayed on wet, quickly expanding to fill the cavity. In addition, a type of liquid foam can be poured into wall openings, where it expands to fill every little nook, making it more effective than its counterparts at stopping air infiltration.
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CHOOSING A BATHROOM SINK
Years ago, choosing a bathroom sink meant choosing between cast iron or vitreous china. But take a look at today’s bathroom sinks. They come in fired clay, brass, copper, stainless steel, marble, granite, soapstone, glass, nickel, solid-surface materials like Corian, and composite materials made of ground stone and polymer. These sinks also come in interesting new shapes, colors, and designs.
Also unlike years ago, when you build a new home today, you often need to consider fixtures for more than one bath. Usually you need one for the children’s bath, a couple for the master bath, and one for the powder room—each often requiring a different look.
Clean lines and clear functions define this modern pedestal sink, which comes in a variety of soft pastels and gray-tones and offers cutouts for either a single-level faucet or a standard three-hold faucet set.
Before heading out to the showroom, it’s good to have a bit of background. Most bathroom sinks fit into a hole in the vanity countertop, whether the sink is self-rimming, tile-in, or integral. A new addition to the repertory is the vanity-top sink, which rests on the top of the vanity like a bowl. Modern pedestal sinks expand your choices even more.
Self-rimming sinks come in two varieties, undermount and drop-in. Each usually contains one to three holes for the faucets and spout, a bottom drain, and an overflow drain. Under-mounted sinks may require that faucets be set into the counter-top, rather than fitted into cutouts in the sink.
Tile-in sinks are a cross between drop-in and under-mount—they sit flush with the vanity top. These offer the maximum in streamlined, easy-to-clean lavatories, although installation is more expensive. Tile-in sinks require that faucets be attached to the countertop.
Vanity-top sinks are fairly recent introductions. You’ve seen them in catalogs and magazines, where they often show up in modern, stylish bathrooms. These sinks are basically large bowls that seem to have been set down on the countertop, though they’re anchored by the drain. Just remember a couple of points about these elegant fixtures. First, they’re a bit more difficult to clean because you’re reaching under and around. Second, faucets for vanity-top sinks are often wall mounted, which requires that the spout reaches over and into the sink. Another point to remember is that vanity-top sinks contain no overflow drain.
Crafted of heavy 20-gauge stainless steel, this undermount lavatory sink will wear beautifully for years. The oval shape allows it to be used in a variety of spaces, including tight fits.
The pedestal sink has been around for decades but has been through a stylistic makeover in recent years. Although pedestal sinks are good choices for small bathrooms, they’re not for people who need lots of counter-top or cabinet space for storage.
Because bathroom sinks come in a great assortment of materials, colors, and styles, it goes without saying that prices vary accordingly—from under $50 for a basic porcelain-coated steel sink to thousands for an expensive French-ceramic sink, a one-of-a-kind hand-thrown and hand-painted sink, or a so-called art-piece sink made of glass or hand crafted out of metal like silver, gold, or copper.
Before spending your money, think about the type of use the sink will get. In the master bath, you might want a beautiful, stylish sink, but you also want to make sure that maintenance won’t become a burden. Depending on the material, some sinks are fairly fragile and might even stain. The best choices may be one of the new, stainless-steel undermounts, a cast-iron sink with a color finish, or a durable fireclay sink, which has a beautiful patina.
For the kids’ bath, a heavy-duty cast-iron sink or a durable—and repairable—solid-surface or composite sink may be the most practical.
If you have your heart set on one of those artistic, high-end bathroom sinks, the guest powder room is one bath where you can let your imagination go a bit wild. Because these see only occasional use, you can choose something like a glass vanity-top sink or a beautiful hand-painted original.
Photography: Courtesy of Kohler.
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Healthy Home Ideas
POISON IN THE AIR
Avoiding Carbon Monoxide (CO) in your Home.
Carbon monoxide is an odorless, colorless and toxic gas. Because it is impossible to see, taste or smell the toxic fumes, CO can kill you before you are aware it is in your home. At lower levels of exposure, CO causes mild effects that are often mistaken for the flu. These symptoms include headaches, dizziness, disorientation, nausea and fatigue. The effects of CO exposure can vary greatly from person to person depending on age, overall health and the concentration and length of exposure.
Steps to Reduce Exposure to Carbon Monoxide:
• Keep gas appliances properly adjusted.
• Consider purchasing a vented space heater when replacing an unvented one.
• Use proper fuel in kerosene space heaters.
• Over gas stoves, install and use an exhaust fan vented to the outdoors.
• Open flues when fireplaces are in use.
• Choose properly sized wood stoves that are certified to meet EPA emission standards. Make certain that doors on all wood stoves fit tightly.
• Have a trained professional inspect, clean, and tune-up central heating system (furnaces, flues, and chimneys) annually. Repair any leaks promptly.
• Do not idle the car inside garage.
Carbon monoxide can cause harmful health effects by reducing oxygen delivery to the body's organs (like the heart and brain) and tissues.
Cardiovascular Effects. The health threat from lower levels of CO is most serious for those who suffer from heart disease, like angina, clogged arteries, or congestive heart failure. For a person with heart disease, a single exposure to CO at low levels may cause chest pain and reduce that person's ability to exercise; repeated exposures may contribute to other cardiovascular effects.
Central Nervous System Effects. Even healthy people can be affected by high levels of CO. People who breathe high levels of CO can develop vision problems, reduced ability to work or learn, reduced manual dexterity, and difficulty performing complex tasks. At extremely high levels, CO is poisonous and can cause death.
Courtesy of Partnership for Advancing Housing Technology (PATH)
www.pathnet.org/homeowners
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Smarter Homebuilding Technologies
PROGRAMMABLE THERMOSTATS
Programmable thermostats save energy by permitting occupants to set temperatures according to whether the house is occupied.
Programmable thermostats save energy by permitting occupants to set temperatures according to whether the house is occupied. These thermostats can automatically store and repeat settings daily and can be set to adjust the temperature setting according to a user's schedule. Programmable thermostats typically offer a number of programming options which may include:
• Vacation Override, which allows temporary override of the programmed settings.
• Keyboard Lock, which prevents unauthorized changes to the preprogrammed settings.
• Low Battery Indicator indicates whether the battery used to hold the programmed schedule is low.
• An Energy Monitor that can keep track of how many hours the HVAC system has run for any selected time period.
• An Auto Season Changeover that automatically provides heat or cooling at the onset of the heating and cooling season.
• A Filter Change Indicator that goes on after a pre-set time period to remind when it is time to clean or replace the filter.
Different types of heating/cooling systems may require different types of programmable thermostats. When purchasing a programmable thermostat, it is necessary to insure the thermostat is compatible with your HVAC system.
Courtesy of Partnership for Advancing Housing Technology (PATH)
www.pathnet.org/homeowners
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